There are few things I like better than a walk in a stream, although this time there was no rod in hand. Instead, it was a return visit to the unassuming but expectation-beating natural attraction that is Patuna Chasm.

In a good year, up to 10,000 people will walk through this area, which is more remarkable in that no one seems to know about it! Word of mouth is the best marketing in this case. It was recommended to us, and we’ve certainly recommended it to many more.

To be fair, this wee gem probably isn’t on your doorstep, instead nestled on a private farm in Ruakōkoputuna, a 20-minute drive from Martinborough in Wairarapa, including lengthy sections of gravel road. The less charitable may call it “the middle of nowhere”, but this is entirely the point as you prepare to navigate your way through an ancient artwork carved by water.

But first – getting there. I know, you’re already at the farm, right? But that large trailer lined with old office seats isn’t for the local wildlife. A trusty Landcruiser is your steed, and a modified trailer with seats for 12 your chariot. And like a chariot, suspension isn’t in abundant supply as you bounce your way down the often dusty and sometimes gnarly farm track. For my teenage son, this was worth the price of admission alone. (Not that he was doing the paying of course.)

Arriving at the trailhead, there is a brief introduction and safety briefing, with a few apprehensive looks at the absolutely soaked walkers awaiting their return ride. Then you’re free to roam.

The first section is a steady incline. An interesting ‘bush walk’ on its own merits, with the first real highlight being the aptly nicknamed wave rock. Already our larger group had dispersed so that everyone had their own space, and time to take their first selfies without being photobombed.

Indeed, the relatively small groups and spacing of each, means that you don’t ever feel crowded. The only hint of the group in front is the occasional loud WHOOP as they reach echo-friendly sections of the chasm below your track.

Downward you proceed, including short sections assisted by knotted ropes to add to the feeling of challenge without it ever being too extreme. The light drops as you do, and after a final rope clamber, suddenly you’re standing ankle-deep in the stream, and in another world.

Like many areas in New Zealand the chasm has been created over millennia by the slow and persistent action of water through limestone. This just happens to be a spot with the right mix of access, beauty and length for exploration without the need for abseiling and caving gear. Lucky us!

A sparkling mossy waterfall is the first stop, a little upstream, before the continuing to walk, scramble and occasionally slip downstream. Along the way you’ll spot ancient shell fossils embedded into rocks, which always makes my head spin – a reminder that much of New Zealand was, like the newly-validated continent of Zealandia we sit upon, once mostly or entirely under water.

The teens are suddenly uncertain about crossing a thigh-deep passage of water, and the reason is quickly clear as a large eel swims past – slowly, as if both in greeting and as a reminder that this is its domain. Potentially this one is the endangered native longfin eel – being much larger and darker than the numerous shortfin versions upstream. They are curious – seemingly appearing out of nowhere (just a little creepily), presumably to check if there are snacks on offer.

The Māori name for eel is tuna, which is surely a clue to the meaning behind Ruakokoputuna, with kōkō meaning to drive a fish, or eel into a net.

The otherworldly spaces only increase as the chasm gains height and enclosure. Though never becoming a cave enclosure, there are similarities – as stalactite formations appear on the walls and overhangs. Here we briefly try our own echo-making skills, no doubt bemusing the next group on the track high above. We also stop for a bite to eat on a small shingle ‘beach’, to take in the surroundings and enjoy a few moments without worrying about our footing.

Before long, we meet our exit point, or perhaps it is better defined as a decision point.
A short scramble up the bank here puts you back next the start of the main track – a quick stroll back to the start/end point. But you can also walk further downstream – perhaps 200m. Although the views are more of the same, you’ve come all this way so may as well see it all. And it was with this sentiment in mind that I took the third option, and rather than turning back for the track, I continued onward.

Now, the water level is generally between ankle and thigh for most of the walk – depending on recent rain of course. Any deeper and you’ve probably chosen a more challenging route and there will be something easier on offer if you search for it. However, the lower reaches of the walk reach a short and narrow gorge, and water that suddenly plunges over chest height or more and the only choice is to swim – so helpfully I’d remembered to leave my phone with the others. It also provides a gadget-free few minutes to enjoy the cool water, reflect on the walk, and find a moment’s solitude in nature.

This walk in the water really does have a bit of everything and is well worth checking out if you’re ever in the middle of nowhere.

Know before you go:

• The Patuna Chasm experience is operated by Patuna Farm Adventures. At time of writing, the costs for the experience were $42 per adult and $20 per child.
• The water level in the chasm can be affected quickly by rain. Cancellations are advised on the Patuna Farm Adventures Facebook page
• There is a toilet and changing shed at the farm carpark, otherwise this is a natural attraction with no further facilities.
• Depending on your speed, it can take anywhere between two and three hours to complete.
• Take your time, as you’ll only be waiting for your return ride if you return early. This includes plenty of time for photo stops, eel-spotting and stopping for refreshments.
• Take a camera, phone, or both. You’ll get some great shots. But remember that you may be swimming out…
• We recommend leaving some space from others in your group. It makes it quieter, more intimate, and means you get photos without others in the background.
• Avoid the Ongaonga (native stinging nettle). You’ll be told how to identify this at the start of the walk. (We didn’t spot any though, so it isn’t something to overly worry about.)
• Leave it as you found it. Unfortunately, there was a little evidence of vandalism of the rock walls – initials carved. On the flipside there was a refreshing lack of rubbish. Play your part and leave the chasm in the pristine state you found it.
• This is very much a self-guided walk. We were given a printed A4 page with directions and safety advice, but otherwise, you’re on your own. A first aid pack and 2-way radio is located near the entrance should the unforeseen occur.